Makin Memories Relocating Easy Wind – Week 2

DAY 1

Taking a day at home was much needed after our LONG but gorgeous crossing.  The adrenaline that surges through your veins to keep you alert and awake during the crossing quickly melts away upon arrival, leaving most of us with the “crossing hang-over.”  I remember one boat arriving in Tarpon Springs and we caught lines for him as he came into his slip in Turtle Cove Marina.  He staggered off the boat, hit the head and returned declaring, “I’m getting back on my boat and sleeping for the next 24 hours.  Please advise everybody I am armed and that if they knock on my boat, I WILL shoot them!”

Day 1 (1)We don’t feel quite that bad but the rest is much appreciated.  We get to see my mom and some of our friends and Jerry spends the one day here fixing some of the little odds and ends around the boat that don’t work or that are broken.  We re-provision as we will try to keep costs down by anchoring out as much as possible.  If the weather is fair, we should be able to do this most nights until we hit the Ft. Myers and the Okeechobee Waterway.

We had planned to leave in the afternoon of the 25th but were advised by a friend that the Pinellas County Commission was meeting this morning to pass a “Shelter in Place” edict and we want to get out of here before we can’t.  Fuel prices are plummeting because of international nonsense and we take advantage of it by fueling up at our local place and pay $2.18/gallon which I have NEVER seen before.  Unfortunately, our bow thrusters decided to die some time between leaving the marina and the fuel dock so that just adds a challenge to the maneuverability but Jerry will deal with it.  Thanks for the help, BJ!!!

We travel down the ICW over familiar waters and under familiar bridges.  We really like cruising this area because the waterway is so narrow you get to see all the homes and it is very interesting. Day 1 (5) It is also a great time of the year because all the Ospreys have amazing nests and the babies have hatched so it is easy to spot an adult along with between 1 and 3 chicks in all the nests that are on the day markers.

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The water here is an amazing color and we are reminded of the colors of our beloved Keys, which are now closed to visitors due to the C-19 quarantine measures.  We are joined on several occasions by dolphins but the last ones are the best.  A pod of 4 or 5 of them comes racing to the boat and the ride the side wake.  A couple are really big and there is one baby.  The biggest one is literally spinning as he swims, turning 360 degrees as he moves along beside us.  Unfortunately I didn’t get my video going in time to catch it. I have NEVER seen one do this before.

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We finally tuck into our favorite anchorage right near the entrance to the Sunshine Skyway Bridge.  We are sheltered from all sides from the wind and are in deep water.  We drop the anchor, set it and attach the Mantis bridle and then relax on the back deck for the first meal we have eaten today.  It is nice to hole up in familiar territory.  Jerry wants to get in the water with a dive mask to see if he can see what’s wrong with the thruster but I veto this because the current is running fast and I don’t think it is safe.  We plan to anchor tomorrow around Casey Key and he can do it then.  In the mean time we enjoy a lovely sunset and get some work attended to as the bridge lights illuminate and the stars begin to appear.  After a rocky start with the thruster boycott, the day ends peacefully.

DAY 2

Daybreak finds us awake and ready to get under way.  Crossing Tampa Bay can be bumpy under the best of conditions. Sunrise and sunset tend to kick up the first and last wind of the day and so we think that getting a jump on the sun may help us see less chop in the bay.   Happily, we are right.  Day 2 (9)We pull out west of the Sunshine Skyway Bridge just as the sun breaks the horizon and the bridge is a beautiful silhouette inked against the wash of rose and golden dawn.  The crossing is windy but there are no freighters or cruise ships to deal with and we make it across the channel and to the other side of the Bay easily.

We come back into the ICW at Anna Maria Island which is probably one of the prettiest places in the world.  Actually the entire trip today, excluding the man-made ditch between Sarasota and Venice is gorgeous.  Once you get south of the Cortez Bridge, the water changes color, and could easily be mistaken for anywhere in the keys.  It is breathtaking even if you have been through here a bunch of times, the colors just never get old!

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The real estate along here is impressive also and the vast opulence causes me to reflect that I would much rather see stuff than have stuff, now if I could only find someone who wants the stuff I have!  My kids don’t, that’s for sure!  I have reached the age where divesting of things appeals to me more and more. Living on a boat for our Loop year reinforced the understanding of how little is needed to be truly happy; that value is to be had in the sights one sees and the people who move from the acquaintance column to the friend column.

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Our day is long because most of the bridges need to open to accommodate Easy Wind’s air draft and a large majority of them are timed and so we have to hover and wait, sometimes 20-30 minutes for an opening, which can be tricky when the channel is narrow and the wind is whistling but we have no issues.  It is sunny and cool and absolutely ideal traveling weather.

We tuck into a watery basin just off the ICW in Nokomis called Cape Haze and drop the anchor.

Day 2 (19)_MomentTomorrow we will be in Ft. Myers and then will begin the cross-state trek to the east coast.  The weather looks like it will be giving us a break, thankfully and so we are pushing ourselves a little bit and the boat not at all just so we have some fudge time if we get socked in somewhere by the weather.  Easy Wind hums along happily at 17-18 rpm.  It has been a really good trip so far and we feel that we have made excellent progress and are a little ahead of where we thought we would be, mostly because of the break we got for the crossing.

DAY 3

During the night the wind completely dies, leaving the boat and air super still.  I have to get up to see what’s going on and am rewarded with lots of stars and the hooting back and forth across the basin of a pair of owls.  The neighbors are all asleep and the peace is sublime.  I go back to bed and the air has a hint of chill which makes it easy to get back to sleep.

We are pulling up the anchor around 6:45 and are underway with the chain, bridle and anchor rinsed off.  The generator let  us make some tea and coffee and we watch the world awaken as the sun makes its appearance.  There is a hint of a breeze but it is much more calm than any other time we have navigated these waters.  The Boca Grande pass is atypically calm and without its usual killer current and we pass Cayo Costa, glad that we hadn’t wanted to anchor there this time because there are more boats in the Pelican Bay anchorage than we have ever seen at one time.

We motor by Cabbage Key Inn, the home of Jimmy Buffet’s song, Cheeseburger in Paradise and continue into Gasparilla Bay.  Again, the water is calmer than we have ever seen it.  The last time we were through here, we were navigating north in a driving rain and cracking thunderstorm.  We could barely see the bow of the boat and the storm tracker on our Iphone was completely red where we were.  We were never hit by lightning but later realized that it must have come close enough to completely fry the motherboard in Jerry’s laptop.  Thank goodness it isn’t like that today.

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The sun is spilling gold all over the water when we become totally surrounded by a pod of dolphin.  There must be 20 of them and they are everywhere.  Some are riding the bow and others are riding the wakes on either side of the boat.  There are 4 or 5 little guys with them and they leap and splash all around us.  We are totally captivated and shoot lots of pictures in hopes that one or two will turn out.  They stay with us for about 20 minutes and I can’t help but think that I would be hard pressed to think of a better way to start the day!

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The cruise to Ft. Myers is very pretty and we travel a different way than we usually do.  Typically we stay in a marina in Estero Beach because we love the restaurants and the feel to the area but the C-19 has all restaurants shut down now, so that they only offer carryout items.  We are not traveling to the Keys on the west coast so there is no point in staying in Estero so we traverse a new waterway which brings us straight into the Caloosahatchee River, which will ultimately become the Okeechobee Canal.  We’ve been to Ft. Myers by boat and the channel is amazingly skinny through here.  I think because people are becoming stir crazy with the safe at home edicts, they all feel like it’s Saturday and there are flotillas of boats going both ways.

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We pull into the Ft. Myers Municipal Yacht Basin and fuel up.  We don’t need fuel but if things start to shut down further along, we want the farthest range we can get.  So, we plan to fuel up wherever it is easily available and the lower prices make it much more palatable also.  We get our first pump out as well and tie up for the night, taking a much needed walk to stretch our legs and to grab a couple of tomatoes and some milk at the nearby Publix.

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We are walking through another ghost town.  I think the sign companies are the only ones doing lots of business because every restaurant and bar seems to be sporting a new carry-out-available sign.  We opt to limit the amount of time we spend in public and choose to eat aboard, enjoying the late afternoon sunshine and giving thanks for being warm again finally!  The sun sets behind one of the bridges and lights wink on across it.  Another day is in the books.

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Day 4

The day dawns chilly and clear though the weather report warns of possible patchy fog and later a scorcher of a temperature at 93 degrees.

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As the sun rises, the wind picks up and though we do see some fog under one of the bridges, it is lying at surface level and looks like the fog that fog machines used to spill across concert stages in the old days. Day 4 (9)

We are joined by a couple of boats and the other power boat and Easy Wind gently but firmly out-distance the sail boat to make it to the first opening of the Franklin Lock.

Day 4 (10)Even if you miss an opening and have to wait, this isn’t a big deal here as the raise is only about a foot.  Thinking back to some of the ones in Canada that raised us 65 feet and more made it a bit more imperative to make any available opening.  Otherwise you would have to wait hours for the lock to fill and then drain again or vice versa.  In comparison, this is a piece of cake!

The canal is prettier than I remember and we pass houses that represent old and new Florida along the banks.  These alternate with acres of scrub and wide-open cattle pasture land that brings to mind the Florida rendered so perfectly by Christopher Still.

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The sun is fierce and it is windy but it is also finally warm enough to drive from our upper helm.  We like the perspective from the top and we are even able to catch sight of manatees in time to avoid them.  The reports say that the C-19 virus hates sunshine and well-ventilated spaces, so again we feel blessed to be sheltering safely where we are!

The second lock raises us 8 feet and the third, at Moore Haven, just a foot and now this ditch is more like I remember it.  Miles and miles of nothing followed by field of sugar cane as far as the eye can see.  We have been traveling with a 65’ Canadian boat, since this morning, called Lady Caradot.

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They out-distance us as we travel at a more sedate pace but each lock has them waiting for us and while they could have ditched us on the third lock because we were pretty far back, they were kind and advised the lock master that we were back here and they all waited for us patiently.

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There is a fire in the distance.  The acrid smoke assaults our noses and when the wind shifts, it is snowing ash all around us. Yuck!  The wind is a constant 17 mph, gusting 26 and that will compromise Plan A for today.  We had planned on tying off on the Clewiston dolphins for the night before crossing Lake Okeechobee but we cannot take the chance of the wind catching our stern and putting us on the rocks (which are very close to the dolphins).

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So, we will tuck into Roland Martin’s marina in Clewiston.  We got fuel here on our last trip across so we are pretty familiar with the waters.

Sam, the grizzled old dock-,master who has been here for at least the last 10 years, greets us and quickly sandwiches us in between Lady Caradot and a 58 footer on the dock so if we want to try to leave early, it will be tricky!

We scrub Easy Wind rather than just rinsing her down, which is our custom when we reach a marina.  There is ash everywhere on the deck but we are able to get her shiny and clean and pretty soon the AC is running and all is right with the world.

This is a fun marina under normal circumstances, with a grill and a tiki bar but all of that is shut down tight.  Given the fact that we are docked right below the tiki bar, we are kind of glad it is shuttered and quiet.  With what is going on in the world right now, we are happy that we provisioned the boat well and choose to eat on board where we know who has prepared our food!  The crew on the yacht behind us is grilling burgers and swilling beer and a Limpkin stands on the canal bank hollering for his mate.

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We learn that Lady Caradot will be cruising to the same spot we have pegged as a maybe stopping spot for tomorrow night, so we’ll see when they depart. They were out early today so maybe they will be out early tomorrow too.  The trick is that you have to back out of here, along the line of boats on the T-head in a very narrow and shallow canal and then do a 180 in a little basin before exiting out through a lock that is pretty much always open and then tip toe out into the Lake.  Should be interesting.

DAY 5

Well, we wait and wait but don’t see life aboard either of the boats that has us sandwiched in.  We formulate our plan to swing the stern out, pivoting on a ball fender and get under way. Not having working bow thrusters on a single screw boat is a bit of a challenge, especially in a narrow, shallow and rock-lined canal, but Jerry is a very good captain.  My job is to deal with the fenders and lines and stay quiet while he concentrates on extracting us.  The departure is a success and Jerry makes it look easy, although I know it isn’t.  Even though the boat was clean last night, I guess ash continued to fall and the decks are now dotted with more of it.  I rinse her down again with river water and she looks better.

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Sam reinforced our impressions from the last time we came through here, which means staying in the middle of channel until you are almost all the way across the rim route at the bottom of the lake at marker 7.  There is no water if you stray even a little bit from the channel.

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We scare a gator or two on the way out into the lake and it really looks as if you should be aground in the marsh grass that borders the narrow channel.  Along the edges of the Lake, great columns of smoke are billowing skyward and the charry scent reaches us even way out n the water.  We come up with the idea that they may be burning the fallow cane fields in order to prepare to plant the next crop.  Otherwise, we have no idea why there would be 3 fires big enough to be detected from this far away.

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After a while, we make it past marker 7 and turn north in deep enough water to relax a bit and sure enough we can now see the other two big boats finally underway behind us!  We are almost across the lake when Lady Caradot laps us, burning lots of dinosaurs in the process.

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The Myakka Lock is open and the lockmaster gives both of us permission to pass through the chamber.  YAY!!!  We pass through the lock and the old railroad bridge, which is also open (I think it always is) and enter another man-made ditch.  There is an almost fluorescent green covering the water on the shores of the canals. What the heck!?!?! Fertilizer run-off? Frightening!

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There are gators on the banks (one of the reasons Jerry hasn’t gone under the boat to look at the thrusters!).

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Lady Caradot turns into River Forest but it is too early for us to stop.   So we decide to continue to the Stuart area.  It is an uneventful trip and we make it to the St Lucie Lock, which will thankfully be our last lock until we get to Virginia.

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Finally, Observer has caught up with us and we both enter the lock and wait to be dropped 12 feet.  I love the sign on the wall!

Day 5 (27)  I guess it’s there in case you weren’t sure of which way you were supposed to go?  We exit the lock and the wind, which has been building since we crossed the lake is now strong and gusting to 24 mph.

Entering Stuart is like coming into another world.  There are the obligatory huge south Florida mansions with mega-yachts docked out front but the sheer number of boats on the water is staggering.  There are mooring fields that must have hundreds of boats on mooring balls and hundreds more at the docks along the shore.

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We have to navigate 3 bridges, all of which are very close to one another, very narrow and we need to open one of them.  Boats are racing from all around us to get in line to go through once Roosevelt Bridge opens and then it’s a free-for-all!  The water is choppy, the wind is literally whistling and things get VERY interesting for a couple of minutes as we rock and roll our way through, following Observer and holding a dozen smaller boats off that want to come the opposite direction.

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The St. Lucie River is busy and rough and we are getting tired.  Experience says that when the captains get tired, it is better to find a spot for the night than to get into trouble.  We have 4 or 5 anchorages pegged as possibilities, some that are great shelter from the wind and others, described as great holding.  The problem with anchorages on Aqua Maps is that you never know how many boats may be sharing the space and whether there will even be room for you once you get there.  We opt for Hoggs Cove anchorage because it is large and there are a few VERY big boats in the anchorage.  It isn’t crowded, there is plenty of swing room and while it will be exposed to the wind, the forecast calls for the winds to diminish as evening falls.

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We set the hook, attach the bridle and stop and restart the IPad.  We have learned that leaving the IPad on for a while is the best way to ensure that the boat is not moving.  We sit and watch, bobbing up and down and listening to the wind whistle by us.  We are firmly in and after a bit the wind thankfully does start to die down a bit and we shut off the IPad.

Day 5 (30)We have some nice neighbors anchored nearby.  When we anchor out, we prefer to come in and stake our space early rather than picking our way through a minefield of anchored boats later in the day.  This strategy works well and we watch as boats come in, nose around and drop their hooks only to pull them up, re-situate and try again.  Finally, everyone seems settled in and we enjoy the sunset.Day 6 (2)

A walk-about near midnight assures me that we are still holding well and the stars are pinprick bright.  We finally have about a quarter moon and Venus joins it in throwing sparkling reflections upon the water.  Beautiful.

DAY 6

The morning dawns clear and doesn’t hold the chill that it has for the last 2 weeks.  Everything is damp, which is not unusual but it will all dry out once the sun shows its face.  There are no signs of life from any of our neighbors as we slip anchor, rinse off copious amounts of mud from it (no wonder it was such a strong hold) and get under way.

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The water is calm for a minute but then a thousand fishermen have the bright idea that the best way to socially distance is to get their boats up and out the pass as early as possible and we are blinded by the rising sun and rocked and rolled by buzzing boats all around us until we get to the inlet and turn north while they all continue east.  The sun is out of our eyes, thankfully and we are now in the ICW and headed north.

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After a while the water turns from tea-stained brown to azure against white sandy bottoms and pods of dolphin bring their babies to play with us.

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Again we have some of the big ones riding the bow wave (this one blows a rainbow for us!) and some of the smaller adults and babies ride the mid-ship wakes on each side of the boat.  They are learning to roll sideways to make eye contact and some of them even spin completely around like little torpedoes.  We take turns driving and talking to the dolphins because…who can resist them?!?!

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Later, we see a huge ray leap free of the water, shiver a little and dive back in and a good-sized sea turtle comes up for air and then darts away as it catches sight of us.

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We tuck into the Melbourne North anchorage which is just behind the bridge and causeway.  This should shelter us from the SE wind a little bit anyway.  The forecast looks ugly for the next couple of days with a cold front marching down on us, pushing high winds ahead of it.  We love the Windy app, which allows us to see what’s going on in any area that might affect us and its projections are correct.

The night is rough, the shelter from the causeway illusive and my captain spends the night on the couch keeping watch until a few hours before dawn when it calms down a little bit and I make him go to bed and sleep for a few hours.

DAY 7

The forecast hasn’t changed since last night.  We confirmed with the owners that we would keep going as long as it was physically safe to do so and they were good with this plan, deferring their previous intention to join us in Charleston, SC since traveling with the C-19 stuff going on has become a bit problematic.

We advised them that the winds were forecast to be constant 20 mph+ with gusts to 45 by nightfall and that we felt the safest course of action would be to marina the boat for the night.  They were in agreement.  So, we take advantage of the relative morning calm (10-15 mph) to bring Easy Wind into the Telemar Bay Marina in Melbourne.

0331201037We came in here for fuel when we were on our Loop and were surrounded by kayakers, water bikers and lots of other weekend sporting fans.  This time we see only one water-biker.  The safer-at-home edict is definitely affecting how people live their lives.

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We fuel up and spend the next couple of hours scouring the boat.  Anchoring out is less expensive but the mud that sometimes comes up on the anchor and chain makes it impossible to keep the decks clean, even when you do your best to rinse the rode as it comes in, which we always do.  If carpets or entry mats haven’t been cleaned in a while, it makes it to where we track dirty footprints onto spotless, dewy decks too which is frustrating.

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I bought a squeegee and have been able to keep the front windows clean but all the side windows were crusted with salt and who-knows-what-else and it felt good to get them cleaner.  I still want to take some CLR to all the windows to remove the scale build up but the wind is kicking up and that will wait till next time.  At least we can now see through them.

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We spend the rest of the day listening to the wind start to whistle and snap the flags around us.  We make sure our water tanks are full, catch up on work, accounting, bill paying and all the other essentials of life that get down graded in importance when we are continuously under way.  An Osprey clings to his nest, feathers blowing and seems perturbed by the mounting winds, as he cries to his mate.  The Osprey hatching on the east coast looks to be a week or so behind the west coast as most birds are actively sitting on eggs rather than feeding hatchlings here.

We make an obligatory run to Publix to provision for our run to the boarder since we plan on not stopping at marinas again until somewhere in Georgia, if the weather cooperates.  We run into Captain Crusty and his “Admiral” Dorothy who are aboard Magic and are staying here.  We came down the river system with them when we were Looping and we all had Thanksgiving dinner together at Turner’s in Mobile.  We tried to rendez-vous with Moondance’s Bob and Nancy but we ended up anchoring out and so missed seeing them.  We must adhere to commandment #1 when on a boat: “Thou shalt have no schedule”   even if it means missing catching up with friends.

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Easy Wind is clean and happy and so Week 2 is in the books or should I say, Captain’s Log?!!

 

 

 

Makin Memories Relocating Easy Wind Week 1

Week 1

It has been so nice to be back on the water.  A different boat, a different journey but oh so reminiscent of our Loop journey, in that it is the two of us alone again sharing sights and experiences unique to us.

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DAY 1

Arriving in Mandeville by rental car allowed us to bring a lot of provisions with us and it was a good thing we had because we arrived at the height of the first wave of panic over C-19, which had people hoarding food and paper products.  We went into a Walmart neighborhood market to buy what we still needed.  There were zero paper products on the shelves, and no meat, eggs or milk.  Fortunately, we don’t use a lot of meat when we are cruising so we were able to find most of the things that we consider to be staples and though we did check a more upscale market for eggs and TP, the story was the same there.

We dropped our provisions back at the boat and because we had left home at 3 in the morning, gained an hour of time change and arrived in Mandeville in the early afternoon, with the rest of the day before us, we decided to go to New Orleans since Jerry had never been there.  We made our way across the 25 miles of bridge that spans Lake Pontchartrain and were able to see the Super Dome Day 0 (1)and downtown as we came off the bridge.  Passing a number of extensive cemeteries, Jerry got to see how gorgeous all of the above-ground mausoleums are.  The ones on the east side of the road were the upscale marble numbers while those on the west side were of crumbling concrete, demonstrating how social inequality follows people even into the afterlife.

We exited the highway and followed a gorgeous tree-lined, azalea popping boulevard that had us passing sweet ante-bellum mansions cheek-to-jowl with modest shotgun houses, sporting peeling paint and crumbling stonework.  We dumped out on the waterfront and traversed it until we came to Jackson square.  The whole experience was like something out of a post apocalypse movie.  Where there are usually bustling crowds, there were empty streets, with a few people here and there but nothing like what is normal.  The bars and restaurants were mostly shuttered with a few half-heartedly trying to make rent by hawking food to-go.  I absolutely cannot imagine what the economic fallout of all of this is going to be.Day 0 (2)

We parked the rental car and explored on foot, taking selfies along the Mighty Mississippi and in Jackson Square and then one more on Bourbon Street, Day 0 (4)which was so empty you could have shot a cannon down the street and not hit a soul.  There is a hollow feeling here that I fear is but a preamble of the devastation yet to come.  We grabbed a couple of ice cream cones from one of the only establishments still open and headed back across the bridge to get ready for departure the following day.

DAY 2

Up early, we returned our rental car to an Enterprise lot that was bristling with cars jammed into every conceivable space on and around the lot.  The young man who gave us a lift back described how lack of business was forcing branch closings right and left.  We got Easy Wind warmed up and spooked a gator off the twisty-turny channel that took us out to the lake.

Day 1 (3)The lake resembled frothy chocolate milk and a few hours later after a pretty rough ride we reached the Rigolets where we fueled up.  This boat is new to her owners and I guess the seller hadn’t used her in a while and so no one had any idea how much fuel was in the tanks.  We were pleasantly surprised to only need about 112 gallons.  On we went out into the Mississippi Sound where we were greeted with more of the same.  Not much to see, partly cloudy and sort of grim, the day passed and we tucked in out of the wind finally at the Gulfport, Mississippi Municipal Marina.Day 1 (10)

This marina was completely rebuilt after Hurricane Katrina and is a really nice facility that can hold about 700+ boats, according to the young man who checked us in and loaned us a splitter cord for the night.  I would come back to visit sometime in the future when we have more time, as there are lovely white sand beaches on either side of the marina and it looks as if the town might be fun to explore but we are tired after a long day and tuck in pretty early.

DAY 3

Up early the next morning, with a goal of getting to a free dock in Gulf Shores (if crossing Mobile Bay doesn’t look too awful), we leave with the flags still standing straight outDay 1 (11) and brace ourselves for another kind of gray and windy day.  At least it isn’t raining.  We pass oil platforms with no evident activity and wonder if this is due to the catastrophically low oil prices, the C-19 or whether it may just be normal for this time of year.Day 1 (7)

There isn’t a lot to see and we chug along, chatting about the cataclysmic events that are rocking the world right now.  The economic fallout is almost more frightening than the possibility of reducing our world population by a couple of percentage points.  I know this is not politically correct to say but I really wonder where our leadership is right now.  An incredible opportunity has been lobbed up to lead with strength to reunify our nation with itself and rest of the world and it has resulted in finger pointing and blame shifting – a swing and a miss by any account.  Nothing unites a people faster than a common enemy but truly our enemy is not another nation and that seems lost on the current administration.  I don’t know what the answer is and sadly I don’t see it in any of the other candidates running for office either.  Time will tell, I guess.

We get our first glimpse of Mobile Bay and it looks totally doable so we continue on across.  It is windy and bumpy but not terrible and we make it across and safely into the ICW.Day 2 (9)

Thank goodness!  I like cruising much better when there is something to look at and we cruise a couple of miles to an abandoned warehouse dock where we tie up to the pylons for the night.  The current is swift so this is a little challenging but we work well together and after adjusting lines and fenders for a while, we are satisfied that we will hold well, even when the tide turns.

This area is amazing.  We are right across from Lulu’s restaurant and just upstream from Tacky Jack’s.

Day 3 (3)The last time we were through here, these waterfront restaurants were bursting at the seams with people eating and drinking, playing beach volleyball to the live music that was pounding out from enormous speakers.  It now resembles a ghost town.Day 3 (1)

Bars have been closed down by state and county edicts and restaurants can only serve to-go orders and while we know this is available, because we called thinking we might want to carry food out, we see absolutely no activity at all.  We decide to make a meal aboard and we enjoy the view from the back deck of the boat while we eat.  We sleep well, Jerry especially.  I know this because I felt and then saw one barge and pusher pass us, rocking us gently on its wake and I whispered, “barge” and he didn’t even stir.

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DAY 4

  Leaving in the morning is a simple affair of just releasing lines and giving a gentle push away because we are at slack tide and off we go, passing the silent restaurants and moving along the ICW again under gray skies.

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We pass barges loaded with the cutest little fish houses.  They are square concrete pyramids with the top flattened and have openings on all sides.  It is nice to see this dedication to re-establishing reefs that have been damaged or destroyed by human activity.Day 3 (5)

We pull into the Wharf for fuel and it starts to rain – typical!  We don’t really need fuel but this is a new boat to us and we want an idea of our fuel-burn so that we are able to plan the trip better.  We top off and fill our water tanks and when we do the math, we find that the boat is burning between 3 and 4 gallons per hour and since there is only one engine, that’s pretty good!  We can now figure out our range capability and plan future fuel stops more efficiently.

The day is gray and uneventful and we decide that stopping at the Ft. Walton Municipal Free dock would make the most sense, economically and timing wise.  We bypassed this stop on our Loop thinking that it was too full and possibly too shallow but we have read the reviews on active captain and we should have at least 8 feet of depth on the T-head, which is fortunately empty.  We pull in and tie up.  The other residents look like permanent sailboat liveaboards.  One is occupied by a young woman, another by a young man and the third by an old man.  There seems to be community here as they are chatting about needing ice and who is going to the market.Day 3 (14)

We call the local police to inform them that we are here (it is Saturday and the park system is closed) and lock up the boat to go re-provision at Publix.  We are hearing horror stories about long lines and no products at home but here, all is normal.  We buy the few things we think we will need to get from here to Tarpon, taking into account the fact that if the weather shifts, we may be stuck in Carrabelle for a few days.

Back at the boat we make a great feast of Publix fried chicken (we NEVER eat this at home) and some fruit and chips.  A brief shower has driven the sketchies from the park but the drizzle lightens and people on paddleboards take Day 3 (16)advantage of the spotty sunshine as sunset approaches.  We watch, a little puzzled, as the young man casts the lines off his sailboat.  He leaves the lines on the dock and walks to the bow where he starts to haul on a line and his little boat moves gracefully out of her slip.  It becomes evident that he has an anchor a few hundred yards away and when he has maxed out the allowed number of days on the free dock, he hauls his boat out and anchors it nearby to spend the required number of nights off the dock before he can legally return.  It’s actually genius and it occurs to us that these folks who might have been considered on the “fringe” of society may be the ones expressly equipped to thrive if our world devolves into surviving by wit and will and not needing a lot to get by!

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I sleep well but Jerry is vigilant due to the nature of the crowd attracted to a municipal park.  He is up several times during the night to check on things but fortunately there are no incidents.  We are up before dawn, making tea and coffee for the day.  We tend to wait to eat breakfast until we are under way because it breaks up the day a little bit.

Day 4 (2)A little duck swims ahead of our boat towards the rising sun, wanting us to go with him but we give it a few more minutes to let the sun shed enough light so we can see the day markers.

DAY 5

The sun is trying to peek through the clouds and we wish we could clear them  away to reveal the blue behind them but it is to no avail.  At least we get splashes of sunshine here and there.  As we approach one of the bridges to the beaches we see flowing movement at the waterline and aren’t really sure what it is until we get closer.  Hundreds and hundreds of Cormorants must have overnighted on the bridge bases and are now in full-on migration mode.  They fly just above the water in a black flowing line and resemble one long, undulating snake rather than a flock of individual birds all bent on reaching the same destination. Part of what I love about boating is seeing things that you otherwise would never even be aware of much less be lucky enough to see.   This photo is of some stragglers who weren’t part of the water-line hugging group; the renegades flying in the face of conformity!Day 4 (16)

From a distance, coming through Panama City and Mexico Beach reveals the resilience of man and nature.  Two years ago, this area was a sea of blue tarps and broken and twisted trees.  The oaks were mangled, with no limbs longer than a couple of feet and the pines were either denuded or literally snapped off, leaving forests of protruding pencil-point stumps.

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Now we see no evidence of blue tarps (though I am sure some probably exist on the non-waterfront homes), a testimony to decent insurance and probably some government grant funding.  The oaks are still mangled but there are surprisingly abundant tufts of green along the broken branches doing their best to create the kind of shade that only an old oak can.  The pines that were left standing have also sprouted a green fuzz along their branches and the undergrowth has rallied to hide the pencil-point stumps.  It is amazing to see what has happened in two short years.  It gives one hope that even after devastation, growth and abundance are still possible.Day 4 (29)

I spoke too soon because as soon as you enter the canal that ties the Panama City area to the Apalachicola area, the wreckage literally still surrounds you.  Bent and twisted trees line this ditch which under the best of circumstances threatens to never end.  It is 40 miles of narrow S-turns edged on all sides by a lot of devastation and swamp grass.

Our plan for the day was to try to get past Apalachicola and out the pass near Carrabelle because we have a weather window for this one 24 hour period and if we miss that, we either spend 3 or more days twiddling our thumbs in Carrabelle or we give the Easy Wind more of a rough crossing than we would ideally like to.  We have been alternating driving and napping in anticipation of a possible crossing and have it timed perfectly so that this should be doable but the current in the ditch is much stronger than expected and we are losing time rapidly.  Night falls as we get to Apalachicola and if that weren’t enough of a challenge (the channel is well marked), we come across an active dredge line that the NAV alerts mentioned might be there – we were hoping the job was finished and they would be gone.  Day 4 (36)The dredge line is actively dredging right in the channel and remembering our Captain’s training, we radio to ask how they want us to proceed.  We are delighted when we decipher the southern slur that is so common to watermen and understand that he is volunteering an escort to take us along his “hot line” and get us to the channel where he hasn’t got any men or machinery.  We follow our escort and are finally clear.  Over the years it has always been gratifying to have things that we learned during our training pop up in real life but we have lost some valuable time here and now need to reassess if attempting the crossing still makes sense.

DAY 6

 We listen to the NOAA weather forecast, scour Marv’s Weather Service for his wind and wave forecast and it is pretty clear that we either go now or we sit for days.  We feel good, the boat has plenty of fuel and is running well and we unanimously give it a thumbs up to proceed, wanting to give Easy Wind her best chance at a non-demanding crossing.  Jerry goes into the engine compartment to check oil and give everything a once over and all appears to be good.

Day 4 (12)

We head out the Carrabelle cut in pitch darkness, which actually doesn’t faze us because the last time we came out this cut we were in pea soup fog that barely allowed us to see the bow of our boat.  At least now we can easily see the markers and we navigate the cut into open water to find the conditions as predicted; we can’t see it but we can sure feel the gentle swells with no large chop or rollers and now the die is cast, we are Tarpon Springs bound.  The problem is that we have no cell service and so cannot let the boat owners know of our intent.  We have family and a friend who know we were contemplating the crossing if all looked good so we know we aren’t out without a soul knowing what we are doing but I don’t like possibly causing the owners to worry about their boat.

The skies have cleared and the stars are amazingly bright here away from the small amount of light pollution this area produces. It looks like a child threw a handful of diamonds against the black velvet dome above us and while some stuck and glimmer there, others scattered over the surface of the water reflecting their light in a mirror image of those above. It is breathtaking!

There is no way to do the Gulf crossing without traversing a good part of it in the dark and this is the payoff.  Last time we had fog the entire way and saw almost nothing, this time we have perfectly clear skies and tons of stars, maybe next time we will have a full moon (we have no moon at all tonight)!

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We alternate two-hour shifts, taking turns staring at our chart plotter and a lot of blackness and napping and the time passes quickly.  During one shift change I come up to see Jerry hanging out the top of the Dutch door talking to goodness only knows who!  I edge up next to him and see that we have a pair of ghost dolphins riding along side of us.  They look like white torpedoes racing through the water right by our side door and they jump as if to greet us.  Again, these are the best parts of boating!

I am on shift as the sun rises and it is absolutely magnificent.  I can now see the gently rolling swells as they bleed from gray to gold to rose and then to blue as the sun breaks free of the horizon.  We each take one more cat nap but we both love this part of the trip too much to spend it asleep.  We see the loons that we only heard in the foggy darkness on our last crossing, when we wondered if we had imagined the sound at 50 miles off shore in Florida!  Because the water is so flat, it is easy to see any aberration and we see fish jumping, lots of Loons and a family of dolphin in the distance, though none of them wants to come and play with us just yet.  Flying fish leap up and skitter away from us, sensing a danger that is all in their imaginations and we are overcome with awe for all the life we see around us.

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When the sun is high, its rays dive deep into the water inking it the color blue I remember so well from my childhood when we would go fishing in the Keys and cross from the emerald green waters into the Gulf Stream.  That cobalt blue has a richness and depth of color that is unmatched, and we soak it in.  The day is magnificent, warm in the sun and cool in the shade, in other words…perfect.

Day 5 (14)Our auto pilot works well and has a remote control which allows us to sit on the bow and up on the flying bridge and keep our bow pointed towards Tarpon Springs.

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The sun arcs high and begins to descend and through the distant haze we finally see the power plant stack that marks the mouth of the Anclote River. 300 miles and 33 hours later, we are almost home!  What a blessing this daylight crossing has been.  Last time we had left earlier in the day and arrived here in time for sunrise, missing all the beauty we have been part of today.  Most of Jerry’s charter crossings have been going from Tarpon Springs to Carabelle and northward.  This is the first crossing we have done together since we finished our own Loop and we are truly grateful for this opportunity.

We arrive at the newly renovated City Docks and our buddy Mike is there to catch lines along with Dillon who works there.  It is slack tide and the wind mercifully decides to grant us peace by subsiding and our docking is smooth and easy and we have arrived at the end of the first week of moving Easy Wind closer to her owners.  We will take some time to figure out what happens from here.  Will enough marinas be left open during the C-19 lockdown to allow us to refuel?  We don’t really need marinas but we do need fuel to finish this job.

 

Makin Memories in Costa Rica

Makin Memories is currently under extensive galley renovations.  Having not had much vacation this year, we grabbed the opportunity to do a quick get-away to Costa Rica.  What follows is the description of our too-short stay in an incredibly gorgeous country.  We would go back in a heart beat!

11/26/19

The adventure begins!  We had enough points to make the 6:45 AM departure easier by staying near the Tampa airport the night before.  Up and at ‘em at 3:30, we showered, used the fantastic new long-term parking lot and train and arrived at the Tampa airport to bypass part of TSA so they could train a sniffer puppy who was very enthusiastic in his duties, wiggling in circles around the passengers and finding nothing amiss, at least while we were near.

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We ran into Tully and Catherine as we zig-zagged back and forth in the check-in lines.  They were on their way to NC for Thanksgiving with Catherine’s family.  Jerry and Tully got to talk strategy for Al’s retirement roast for a few moments and then we sat for a bit waiting to board.  The people-watching was entertaining, as always.  People with little dogs in carriers, others who looked like they opted out of changing from their bedclothes to come to the airport and others dressed to the nines in 4-inch heels and nightclub attire.  It never fails to amaze us what people decide to travel in.  The best was the New Yorker, who could barely make the legal ride-height requirement at Disney, who was sporting a hat larger than he was and as he got closer, we could see that he was wearing not one, not two but three hats!  A New York Yankees ball cap and then 2 Stetsons on top of that.  We shrugged and agreed that there really was no way for him to sensibly pack them!

The plane ride was a couple of hours and was easy.  Seeing the route along the ICW that we navigated on the first part of our Loop brought back memories.  Being able to see the Keys and reefs where we have snorkeled was amazing and we both sat transfixed by the perspective we had.  Not having a route map left us guessing that we came across the Gulf and over the Yucatan to head further south.  The beaches gave way to dense greenery which folded upwards into lushly forested hills and higher up it appeared as if a woman’s gauzy, green scarf had floated over and settled gently onto the peaks and valleys of the mountains.

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San Jose from the air

 

Arriving in Costa Rica was like being parachuted onto the set of Jurassic Park or King Kong.  The sun was shining on us in the bowl of San Jose but the surrounding mountain tops were shrouded in swathes of misty clouds that ribboned in and out of the jungle tops.  We rented a car from Geraldo who looked at Jerry’s driver’s license and asked Jerry if he knew what people who shared a name were called.  “Brothers?” Jerry asked.  Geraldo grinned and stated, “No, we are tocayos!”  And so we learned a new Spanish word  (tocayo=name-twin) probably the first of many new words!

We arrived at the hotel (Doubletree San Jose) and were amazed to find the lobby totally open-aired and decorated for Christmas.

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Doubletree San Jose

It reminded me a little bit of the hotel lobby where Bitzi and I stayed in Kauai when I was pregnant with Leland.  The hotel is lovely, designed  in terra-cottaed, arcing walkways from which rooms and suites branch off for maximum privacy.  They upgraded us which was very nice, giving us access to free breakfast and cocktail hour drinks and snacks. The sun was setting as we enjoyed a beer by the pool, listening to all the different bird calls and we caught sight of the Great Kiskaddees who make homes in the surrounding trees.  We enjoyed a fabulous meal at the open-air, pool-side restaurant and watched the stars peep out of the sunset colors above the hotel grounds.

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A quick workout in the gym and a great breakfast of fresh fruit and eggs with local pastries and fantastic sausages in Hilton Honors Club geared us up to hit the road.  We did a quick recon of the city of San Jose and then beat it out of town towards the mountains.  We have never been huge fans of cities but I would really like to go back one day to visit the Cemetario Obrero, which looked really cool. On a wave of traffic, we were swept past its raised mausoleums and beautiful statuary with no way to pull over and explore it.  I always love visiting graveyards in foreign countries but this one will have to wait.

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Inside the church in Zarcero

Most of the day was spent riding up, down and around mountains with breathtaking views.  We were in sunshine one moment and shrouded in mist the next.  We broke up the drive in the town of Zarcero where the locals were decorating a park filled with topiaries in front of a twin spired church.

We HAD to stop and explore here.  The church was open-aired and simply lovely, standing watch over the town since “El ano de Senor 1907.” Later we found out that this is one of only 6 or 7 spots to make the Atlas Obscura’s Costa Rican list (https://www.atlasobscura.com/places/parque-francisco-alvardoa)

Back on the road, we maneuvered around semis and buses that had to swing wide on blind curves to make it around them without losing paint.  Jerry relaxed into his Mario Andretti manual driving mode and we made decent time, arriving in La Fortuna to get out, stretch, enjoy some sangria with lunch and explore for a bit before circumnavigating the Arenal volcano, which unfortunately was shrouded in dense cloud.

We found our Airbnb and sat out on the room’s balcony to just chill and take in the view of Lake Arenal.  The air is cool and damp and the birds are amazing.  Our balcony is surrounded by various kinds of ginger, verbena, papaya, palms and some dense shrubs that I can’t identify.  The birds are beautiful colors and are very social, especially when Jerry plays their own calls on his phone from the ornithology app he has.

IMG_9448.JPGWe were swarmed by scarlet rumped caciques, hummingbirds and social fly catchers, all of whom acted like an intruder had come into their midst when they heard the calls emanating from his phone!

IMG_9446The bnb kitten joined us for a bit of purring and perching before running off to join her mama and leaving us to soak up the sights and sounds of this jungle paradise.   We can see the sides of the volcano but owing to the dense mist and low clouds I wonder if we will ever see the cone.

11/28/19

We have a 9:30 reservation at the Arenal Biological Reserve but we are up early, thinking maybe we would hike the lava trails before arriving there.  Unfortunately, those trails didn’t open until 8 so we went ahead and drove onto Arenal just as the ticket booth and restaurant were opening.  We checked in and asked if we might do the tour earlier.  The man replied that if we wanted to go immediately, he would change our reservation.  Knowing that we would free up a lot of the rest of the day, we opted to do just that.  We had chosen a self-guided tour, which in retrospect was still probably a good option due to the fact that once we were in the park, it began to drizzle and then pour.  We were dressed appropriately in rain gear and hiking shoes and with an umbrella and a shower cap to protect the camera, we took our time walking through the gardens and into the canopies while guides hurried their charges past us.  If the weather had been good, using a guide would have been the best choice but given the conditions, we were okay with the way we explored the park.

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It’s called a rainforest for a reason and it was amazing to hear and see all the birds during the lulls in the rain.  The rain roared onto the canopy and that roar echoed as the water cascaded down from leaf to leaf until we were surrounded by walls of water cascading all around us.

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Colors of the Rainforest

The torrents came and went, interspersed with periods of calm, during which the birds and frogs immediately started calling and darting around.  It was magical!  We descended a steep path to the waterfalls, which were running hard from the rain and torrents of muddy water poured into a river of café au lait.

1 (21).JPGA shaft of sunlight penetrated the canopy to spotlight a Blue Morpho butterfly before the rain resumed and forced it into hiding.  What a treat to see the iridescent blue of this gorgeous butterfly in the wild!

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Hanging Bridges in Mistico Preserve

We navigated several hanging bridges that spanned the gaps between mountain sides, allowing us a bird’s eye view of the canopies beneath us.  They were not stable at all and when more than one person was on them, they jerked and swayed so that keeping one’s footing was precarious at best but the view, even with the pouring rain, was amazing!

1 (19).JPGWe finished up the walk and celebrated with some coffee and hot chocolate.  The temperature was comfortable even when we were wet but hours of being wet can still be a bit chilly so we were happy to get back in the car and dry off a bit.

 

The main mission was to find sloths and we both realized that without an expert to help us spot them, we might walk right past them and never know it so we decided to go to the Sloth Park which seemed too touristy and way too close to the town of La Fortuna to actually have sloths but we opted to try it out anyway.  They guarantee you will see two breeds of sloths and our hopes brightened.

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Eliezer was our guide and we set off into the jungle with a couple from Vancouver and a family from Texas in tow.  Almost immediately Eliezer spotted an Aricari, a small breed of toucan. He set up his monocular and we each got to see it.  He even took photos with each of our cameras so that we could preserve the memory. 1128191239b_HDR.jpg

He educated us about how we could tell the difference between 2 and 3 toed sloths (the 3 toed are grayish green with algae and are most closely related to anteaters while the 2 toed ones are buff-brown and are related most closely to the armadillo).  They can live at least 3 decades and will stay with their babies for 6 months and then leave them to roam about the jungles.

1128191300_HDR.jpgThe babies stay in the same area until they are about 3 years-old when they are full grown and then they will start to roam as well.  This particular park had a lot of sloths that were young and they thrive here because there are no real predators like jaguars and ocelots, which are prevalent in their other habitats.

We were blessed to see many 3 toed sloths and even one 2 toed sloth that was missing one hand.  Eliezer thought he might have tried to cross the street and gotten hurt that way but he seemed to be doing okay with just one hand.  I was pretty proud when I actually spotted one sloth before Eliezar pointed it out to us but the others that he showed us, I never would have seen were it not for his direction.  We also saw a swarm of honeybees on the side of a tree, protecting their queen as they searched for a new home.  Eliezer said they would stay on that tree about 20 days while scouts looked for a new home for the colony – it was amazing!

1128191409.jpgWe identified a huge termite nest that, when touched, seemed to come alive with tiny termites.  We were challenged to taste them, which I did but Jerry opted out of.  There was a hint of mint and a tiny crunch and not much more to them than that.  We also found wild anise which is supposed to be an effective, natural bug deterrent and the smell was wonderful.

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All in all, the Sloth Park is an amazing place to learn about these adorable little animals and we would highly recommend it.  It was the perfect way to feel very thankful on a Costa Rican Thanksgiving Day!  We returned to town and ended up at a restaurant that advertised typical Costa Rican food where we enjoyed some locally brewed Kolsch with an appetizer of chips and pico de gallo, guacamole and black bean puree.

1128191620_HDR.jpgThanksgiving dinner consisted of roasted chicken, BBQ ribs with sides of plantain patties.  We retired to our room, making plans to do the lava field walk in the morning before the drive to Santa Elena.

11/29/19

From your bed, you can tell if it is raining around dawn by listening to whether the birds and frogs are chirping or not.  We had heard rain off and on all night long and as the sun came up, we hoped that the rain would have abated for a while but it came and went in the manner that now seems typical for this area of Costa Rica.  So, we gathered our belongings and packed the car, hoping for a break.  We got lucky!  The rain stopped and there were actual patches of sun here and there, which we hadn’t seen since our arrival here.  We bade the hotel kitties adieu and hot-footed it over to the lava park where we were the first people to arrive.

1129190923_HDR.jpgWe got our tickets and Jerry grabbed a walking stick and off we went.  We opted for the longer 4k walk that wound through the forest, around a small lake where there were supposed to be caiman (we didn’t see any) and then up into and across the lava fields to finish up down in a sugarcane forest.

As gorgeous as the walk was the day before, with its man-made walkways and tree-like railings, I liked this one better.

1129190942a_HDR.jpgWhile man must have hacked the original trail and added some of the rocks that formed stairways, the majority of the walk was totally natural and really felt like you were walking through the jungle.  There were large and small openings in the rocks that must have been homes for something but I am not sure we wanted to find out what!  Up and down we went, around the lake, and all the while we were shrouded on all sides by lush greens of all shapes, sizes and colors.  There were relatives of our begonias here and there, philodendrons climbing the trees and lots and lots of species we couldn’t readily identify.

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As we emerged from dense jungle into scrubbier jungle, the lava fields became apparent.  We walked over crushed pumice, both black and red, climbing and climbing until we reached the summit.  The sun popped out to light up Lake Arenal and dappled the surrounding folds of green hills.  We took some photos and remarked on the berries that grew along the trail.  They are not blue like our blueberries; they are almost iridescent blue and we wondered what magic was in the soil to make them that amazing color.

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We started down the trail, passing old people who wheezed their way down and around the volcanic boulders of the trail.  I was half terrified for them (especially the old men who were walking all alone with nothing but their trekking poles) and half applauded their ability to carry on and do what they felt called to do regardless of whether it might have been the wisest choice for them or not.  We landed on a lava gravel trail that wound through towering sugarcane or some other kind of bamboo-like grass and finally entered a forested area where we came across honest-to-goodness leaf-cutter ants scurrying along an invisible trail.  I was so happy to be able to get really good video of them.

After a two-and-a-half-hour walk, we felt energized and ready for the 4 hour drive to Santa Elena.  We had seen a German Bakery (been there for 20 years, we later found out) on the map of this area and had decided to stop there for breakfast or lunch along the way and we were pleasantly surprised at how authentic the food was.  Almost all of the patrons were speaking German and that is another thing that we have noticed since arriving here.  Costa Rica has a VERY international draw.

1129191157_HDR.jpgUnlike many tourist destinations in the states and Europe where the predominant tourists hail from Asian ports, here the languages are varied with French, German and Spanish being the most recognized and the Asian languages being the least represented here.  We enjoyed a lovely lunch with a sinful apple strudel for dessert and got back on the road.

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We had both been pleasantly surprised at the condition of the roads in Costa Rica, as we had expected very poor quality.  Until late this afternoon, the roads have been fantastic, almost all newly blacktopped.  Jerry has had a great time winding around corners, shifting gears like a native and challenging oncoming buses and trucks for the best half of the roads which are usually right down the middle.

IMG_5758.jpegTrue to the guidebook, as we got 30 or so miles out of Santa Elena, the roads devolved into unimproved washboards of dirt, gravel and rock.  The fun was definitely over.  The winding switchbacks didn’t change, nor did the type of oncoming traffic but the suspension in our car degraded to a kidney-jarring test of endurance and by the time we got to our Airbnb, we were both exhausted and so happy to find a warm welcome at the Pension Santa Elena.

1129191547.jpgHere we have a sweet little room with its own private slate bathroom, a communal kitchen complete with fridge, stove and microwave and a sitting room.  It has a warm, hippie commune vibe (I think Annelise would love it here) and is owned by a Texan and his Asian wife.  Their kids were sitting the reception desk when we checked in and were wonderfully welcoming.  The rooms are spartan but clean and have everything we need along with a unique feel.  We hung out in the common area, reading and people watching and finally hit the hay.

There is no AC but none is needed as the breeze is omnipresent and always cool, due to our elevation.  There are no bugs, so windows were left open which resulted in a bit more noise since we are right on the main road through Santa Elena.  Around 10 PM all the people-noise mostly abated but the motos (sin mofles) were audible pretty much all night long, grinding their way uphill through town and then gunning down the hill behind the pension.  We were tired and so slept pretty well despite the noise.

11/30/19

11/30 started with a great breakfast, which was included in our pension’s price.  They gave us a flattened-out bottle cap which served as our token for breakfast.

1130190806.jpgThe two little ladies next door took our orders (which were guesses since the menus were AWOL) and delivered fresh-made tacos with black bean puree, scrambled eggs and queso for me and scrambled eggs with fried potatoes and toast for Jerry.  The sides were a very spicy pico de gallo and a pineapple chutney that was really tasty.  I love the unique experiences to be had when you let someone serve the local choices.

 

We had decided to just let the day happen and so we meandered through town and picked up some souvenir-gift items, some cookies and energy bars and then decided to take the bus to the Monteverde Biological Preserve.  We caught the bus right outside our hotel and rode the 5 km uphill to the preserve where we were given wristbands and in, we went.  The walks were amazingly different from the walk we did at Arenal.  For one thing, the weather was threatening sunshine, a commodity that had been sorely lacking since our arrival!  The walk was way more physically demanding than any we had done prior to this one but not enough to make us anything more than aware that we might feel it later. We had packed trekking packs with enough water/juices and bars to make the 3-4 hour walk without discomfort.

This hike was definitely more physically tough, with very steep ascents and descents and a lot of muddy trails.  The views were spectacular along the way, when we got a chance to look up from where our next footfall was safest…waterfalls and massive trees filled with epiphytes and vines.

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We followed a family across the hanging bridge that provided a birds-eye view of the forest canopy below.  By the time we got to the middle of the span, the child, who was in her dad’s sling, was crying with fear and their poor dog refused to put another foot forward and stood visibly shaking at what she saw beneath her feet.

1130191224.jpgWith a bit of coaxing, they all made it safely to the other side and collapsed to decompress with snacks for the dog and the kid.  Makes you wonder sometimes why people set themselves up to make things more challenging than they need to be!  Oh well, been-there-done-that and survived and I bet they will too.

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Finally we got all the way up to the Continental Divide where we watched cloudy mists blowing over and through the tops of the massive trees on one side and saw how the constant winds on the other side produced an “elfin forest” of trees that were dwarfed by the adverse conditions.  It was an amazing sight, especially since the sun was more present than were the clouds.

 

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I have been really pleased with my hiking shoes that I bought a few months ago.  I tried on very expensive Merrills, Keens and other hiking shoes, knowing that I didn’t want hi-rise boots.  None of them fit well enough and I continued searching until I found a pair of $30 Columbia zero-drops at Dick’s that felt perfect.

1 (19).JPGYesterday proved that I can walk for miles in the pouring rain with wet feet and even after hours of this, my feet still felt comfortable.  Today shows that I might have a shot at walking the Camino since I had to put on damp socks and wet, muddy shoes and I was still able to hike for hours over very challenging terrain and I was still comfortable.  In fact when we were finished with the hike, we decided to walk the 5k back to our hotel and while I could definitely feel that we had done in excess of 10 miles that day on top of 8 the day before, I felt amazingly good (once I got home and got my shoes and socks off)!

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I can’t leave out the fantastic experience we had because we decided to walk home.  As we left the park, I caught sight of a hummingbird zipping past us and then saw a staircase and sign that said Hummingbird Gallery.  Up we went and what awaited us was simply awe inspiring.  There were typical hummingbird feeders but also little ones that people were holding up and the hummingbirds were zipping and whirring around so fast you almost couldn’t see them.

1130191353_HDR.jpgWe learned that there were 8 species of them from teeny tiny ones to others that were really big and everything in between.  The colors went from black and white to the ruby throated hummingbirds to ones that glowed purple.  The differences were astounding and these little guys were definitely not afraid of us.  They whirred by our ears to hover or land on the feeders we held and were quite territorial, often whacking into each other hard enough to knock both birds to the ground for a second or two.  We stood for probably about a half hour just taking in this amazing sight and if that weren’t enough, we turned around to see a Koati digging for grubs in the forest next to the gallery!

1130191404.jpgQuite an inspiring morning and afternoon.  It gave us a lot to talk about on the walk home.

We rested for a bit in the afternoon, made an early dinner of left-overs from our Thanksgiving meal which really was just as good the second time around and then got ready to do the guided night hike that we had signed up for the day before.  70% of Costa Rica’s animals are nocturnal so we were really looking forward to this night-hike and it didn’t disappoint!  Tony spoke really good English and took 6 of us into the forest where we spotted a Blue-Crested Mot Mot, roosting in a tree.  Even with 7 spotlights shining on him, this bird refused to move, nor did the other birds that we later spotted in trees like the Brown Jays, a Green Toucan (who looked a lot like a green nerf ball) and a Wood Thrush.  We also spotted an Orange-kneed Tarantula who was very shy and retreated into his hole when our footfalls vibrated too menacingly for him.

1130192031a.jpgWe saw a pair of Green Palm Pit Vipers garlanded into hanging figure eights of chartreuse scales, waiting on dinner to happen by. Tony took close-up photos for us and explained that the pit viper can sense temperature which was why he wasn’t being attacked, even though he was really close to the first one.  He said that the snake can tell the difference between human and rat temperature which is why the snake will only attack a human if it feels threatened rather than just because it is too near.  If we were rat-temperature, it might be a different story.

We saw bats and a Koati high in a tree, along with a pregnant mother sloth and her baby.  I would recommend the night hike to everybody who goes to Costa Rica.  The guides communicate with each other so that if one finds something cool, the others know to take their people to that spot later on.  Tony lit up a little mushroom with his flashlight and then told us to shut off our lights.  When we did, we saw that the little mushroom was bioluminescent and glowed with an eerie purple light. It was amazing!  We got home about 8:30, grabbed a gelato and crashed.

12/1

We got up and packed this morning, had breakfast of yogurt, muesli, fruit and toast and hit the road for Jaco, which is on the Pacific coast.

IMG_5806.JPGWe just sort of picked the destination a few nights ago and felt like it might be a cool place to dip our toes in the Pacific and chill for a night before heading back to San Jose.  The drive was much easier out of Santa Elena than the drive in was, over mostly improved roads.  We coasted downwards through lush, green canyons under a blue sky.  There was definitely a different feel to the villages and countryside.  It seemed more tropical with palm trees starting to show up, here and there.  It was so nice to see the sun for a change!

As we neared the coast, we decided to stop at Carara National Wildlife refuge for a walk to break up the trip.  This is where the dry forest meets the rain forest and was very different from where we have been.  We saw Agoutis and iguanas and had a lovely walk through the woods, seeing more fungi than animals and birds but enjoying the walk just the same.

1201191108b.jpgWe were disappointed not to see Scarlet Macaws, though we did hear them.  They are supposed to be active in the park during the day, though the guidebook did say it was best to try to see them early in the morning or in the evening as they migrated to the park or back to the white mangroves where they overnight.  We were fortunate to see very cool spiders and a myriad of different mushrooms, which we really didn’t see prior to this.

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We were forewarned in our guidebook that we would either love or hate Jaco depending on our age and what we wanted out of a stay.  We grabbed a bite to eat at Senor Harry’s as we were a bit too early to check in and LOVED the fresh ceviche and guacamole that was made tableside and seasoned to our desired degree of spiciness – or lack thereof!

Our Airbnb, Tuanis ( which means go for it!) was lovely in a jungle motif sort of way.  It was just off the main street and just past the heart of downtown Jaco. Our host, Ricky was from California and looked like he taught surfing for a living.  There is a very laid back and chilled sort of atmosphere here.

We were a block from the beach and had to dip our toes into the water. It is a black sand and pebble beach with decent surf and we watched as surfers came out of the woodwork to take advantage of the beautiful late afternoon and sunset.  This was a great place to relax and we took advantage of it.

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Walking downtown after dark was a different story.  The atmosphere turned a little frenetic and there were police everywhere, we even watched them arrest someone and throw him in the back of the policia pick up.  That was enough, we grabbed a caramel ice-cream and headed home where we read and just enjoyed the air-conditioning for the night!

12/2/19

The journey is coming to an end but what wonderful sights we have seen.  We took a brisk morning walk along the beach and then had some breakfast and off we went.

We opted for local roads which added an hour to the trip back to San Jose but we were really glad we did.  We scooted along the coastal road for a while and then were in the midst of the agricultural areas of Costa Rica.  We wound through palm groves planted in perfectly straight line, which gave way to plantations of bananas, in which all the hands of bananas were bagged, we guessed that this might protect them from monkeys.  We ducked as a bright yellow, crop duster wheeled above us to swoop around and dust the grove again.  So, maybe the bags protect the bananas from insecticides?  Further along were groves of papayas and then other trees we couldn’t identify.  The roads became potholed and threatened to rip our undercarriage apart if strict attention was not paid to navigating.  It was worth it though, we spotted a regular toucan and a scarlet macaw up in trees above the road as we passed.  We wound up, down, around and over the mountains marveling at the tiny concrete block homes that were seriously out in the middle of nowhere, clinging to the edge of a mountain.  Their views were magnificent, all cloud topped peaks above and wavy green folds of canyons below.

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One of the amazing things we have noticed about the homes, no matter how rich or humble, how city-bound or in the middle of nowhere they are, they are all protected.  Barred windows are the norm and walls with broken glass and razor wire are not uncommon either.  We haven’t done much research about the crime in this country but we have heeded the warnings not to leave anything valuable in the car even for a short time.  Our car has been in private parking lots everywhere we have gone and we have still not left anything in it that had any value at all.

We finished up our drive from Jaco, cresting a ridge to see San Jose spread out below us and wound through back roads to arrive back at our Doubltree where we chilled by the pool and read and wrote travel notes for a while.   We enjoyed a relaxing day, took a walk and saw a Rainbow Eucalyptus tree that was amazing, it is the first one I have seen outside a botanical garden and it was gorgeous!  A literal rainbow of colors peeks through the peeling brown bark.

Rainbow Eucalyptus.jpg It seems that the time has fled too quickly but I know we will treasure the memories we have made here forever!

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To Be Continued at another time in the Future. We LOVED this place!

 

Fun Boat Names

I collected these names along our Loop but forgot to post this.  It was fun to see all the clever names people come up with for their boats. Hope you enjoy!

Our boat came with her name and we loved it and never wanted to change it (other than maybe adding an apostrophe or a “g” to make it grammatically correct!).  We are Makin Memories this year, as we believe them to be the best things in which to invest money.

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Memories require no maintenance, dusting, sanding, painting, feeding, walking, fueling or upkeep.  They are easy to share and help forge connections between us and new people we encounter.  Memories are wonderful bridges to the pasts we have traveled with people we love in our family and in our group of friends.  The fact that we embarked on a year-long cruise to raise awareness about Rotary’s CART (Coins for Alzheimer’s Research Trust) program is a fitting irony to our boat’s name!   www.cartfund.org

As we have cruised, we have seen all kinds of boat names. Some make immediate sense and others need to be explained.  Here are some of the ones we have come across so far that are worth noting.

COULD’VE HAD PEARLS

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Enough said, right!?!?!  Each of us could have chosen to spend our money differently but our point of intersection is that we didn’t!  Living minimally aboard a boat reinforces what is important in life: experiences and people.

WINE SPEED

Short story:  The boat is never allowed to go faster than one can hold a glass of wine without spilling it.

Long story: The owners live and have an outboard on Lake of the Ozarks which is long and narrow. They say that during nice weather people zoom up and down this narrow lake and the wakes all bounce off the shore creating a washtub effect.  He says his wife hates the beating she takes under these conditions.  She termed the speed that she likes to travel as “wine-speed,” which she says is a misnomer anyway because, like all good captains, they don’t drink while boating but wait until they return to shore.  Again, this is the speed at which one can comfortably hold a glass of wine without spilling it.

When they bought their 50+ foot trawler (after they had had go-fast boats), he said it took a while to get used to how SLOW it went. So, when they were trying to think of names for it, they were thinking “Turtle” or “Tortuga” or something that moved slowly but then they thought, “Hey, Wine Speed is perfect!” and so the boat got her name.

MERAKI

Our new friends Jim and Allie Cantonis are on the Loop, starting a month behind us, from Tarpon Springs.  They overtook us south of St. Augustine in the ICW, hailing us by name as they passed us – it sure made Jerry do a double take to hear his name rather than Makin Memories coming over the VHF radio!

They have a beautiful trawler named Meràki.  When we asked what the name means, Jim explained that it is a Greek word that is usually used in a phrase about how one does something and it is actually me-meràki or “with Meràki.” Meràki literally translates from the Greek as doing something with love, passion, a lot of soul, in short with everything you have.  What a great name for a boat that is embarked on the Great Loop adventure!

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Jim Cantonis aboard Meràki, Allie at the helm.

SARAH-DIPPITY

Courteous captains will radio a boat they want to pass and ask them which side they prefer to be passed on. This gives the other captain a chance to slow or stop his boat, allowing the overtaking boat to make a slow pass and avoid rolling the overtakee.  Not all captains are courteous however and some will just blow by you, in spite of Coast Guard regs that state that you are responsible for any and all damage caused by your wake.

Such was the case with Sarah-dippity (stupid name anyway).  Her captain sped by us in a narrow channel, throwing a huge wake which tossed us all over the place and then he proceeded to scream by the sailboat ahead of us. I swear I thought it was going to roll far enough over for its mast to touch the water on both sides.  I re-christened that sport fisherman Sarah-Dip-Shit!  Pardon the language but as Jerry says, “Dicks come in all shapes and sizes!”  This captain should have heeded this message we saw painted on a bridge just south of Troy, NY.

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TYRO

 In the first couple of months of our trip, we have met several youngish men who are doing the Loop solo, by choice.  Not wanting to pry, my curiosity is unsatisfied as to whether the Loop is a space between significant chapters of their lives, a bucket-list kind of thing, a conscious seeking of a minimalist lifestyle or something entirely different.

We sit in the Cape Fear River navigation and weather briefing classroom in Southport, NC with a young man who has just bought his boat in Charleston and started on the Loop four days prior to our meeting, with no real boating experience.  He was to have had some training before his departure but an emergency root canal laid him out for the 10 days that he was supposed to have trained and so he is figuring it out as he goes.

His boat’s name is Tyro (Tie-roh).  When I ask about it, he explains that the word comes from the Latin tiro, which means “young soldier,” “new recruit,” or more generally, “novice.” He goes on to explain that Herman Melville used “tyro” to describe men new to whaling and life at sea. He says if he fails in this endeavor, the guys who tow him back in will shake their heads and say, “Eh, it’s to be expected, he’s a tyro.”  BUT if he finishes the Loop and crosses his wake in Charleston next year, people will be impressed that he did it and say “Wow, he’s a tyro and he made it!”  Gotta love a guy who is prepared for the worst but who is expecting the best!

THE COAST STARLIGHT

In Mystic, CT we are docked at the Mystic Seaport Museum and have been befriended by Lyn and Bob aboard the Albin 36 trawler named Coast Starlight.  We enjoy a cool but sunny afternoon sitting on their flying bridge, snacking on excellent peanut butter cookies and sharing boat tales.  They are not doing the Loop but bring their boat to Mystic from Rhode Island on a regular basis to visit with friends, always accompanied by their napkin-munching dog named Harry.

When I ask about the boat’s name, Lyn explains that they were not fond of the name the boat came with and that this was the last chance Bob was going to have to name anything the Coast Starlight.  They go on to explain that the Coast Starlight was the train trip (now run by Amtrack) that was the luxurious and romantic way to see the West Coast back when Bob was young.  It is the longest continually running train route in the U.S. and is widely regarded as one of the most spectacular of all U.S. rail trips, linking the greatest cities of the West Coast.  It runs from Seattle to Los Angeles, via Portland, Sacramento, the San Francisco Bay area and Santa Barbara with numerous other stops as well.

Bob claims that the scenery is unsurpassed, allowing excellent views of the snow-covered Cascade Range, Mount Shasta, lush and dense forests, fertile valleys filled with farms that grow much of our country’s produce and then there are the breath-taking stretches along the Pacific Ocean shoreline.

It sounds like the trip of a lifetime and when I do further research, I find that this 36 hour train ride still exists, is not unreasonably priced and that perhaps it is something that should go on our life-list of things to experience!

SLOOP DU JOUR

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Just a clever name

ELPIS

I have only seen this boat in a blog about two young women who delayed starting grad school for the life experience provided by doing the Loop.  I really enjoy reading their insights and impressions of the journey but I LOVE the name of their boat.

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From her co-captains, Emily and Grace; Elpis, from Greek mythology, is the spirit of hope- specifically the spirit that stayed behind to help mankind when all the contents of Pandora’s Box were released. Hope is one of the most powerful forces in the world, and when there is nothing else left, there is still hope.”  (https://emandgracegosailing.wixsite.com/greatloop)

NINE LIVES

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Louise and Dick have a hard time understanding why people ask them why their boat is named Nine Lives (she’s a 44’ Endeavor Power-Cat or Power-Catamaran for those unfamiliar with that term).  If you still don’t get it, email me!

SAIL LA VIE

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Another Clever Sailboat Name

KAILANI

When I ask Nick to tell me about his boat’s name, he explains that Kailani is a Hawaiian term that combines the words for sea and sky.  “We are almost always on the sea and we’re always under the sky,” he said, “but there is another twist to it and that is that if you take our last name’s initial it is “C” and my wife owns a virtual store named Sky.  She designs Victorian dresses for avatars in an online virtual world.  So, that’s another C+Sky!

Man, you hear some interesting origins for people’s boat names!

LOOFAH

No photo but when asked, “It relaxes and takes our layers of stress away,” say Art and Sue!  I suspect there is more to this name!

FRIENDS IN L’EAU PLACES

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Saw this and thought of all our friends who are Jimmy Buffet fans!

CHEQUE MAGNET

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This is really the name for all of our boats at one time or another!

ICEMAN

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We met Wayne (a fellow Rotarian from the Ingersoll Ontario Club) and Lori in Campbellford, Ontario.  We leap-frogged with them up to Orillia on Lake Simcoe.  I asked Lori about their boat’s name and she said that Wayne used to be a frozen meat broker and then when he retired he became an icemaker for the local curling club where he competes.  He has been curling since he was 10 and apparently curling ice is different than hockey ice.  Who knew!?!?!

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I also love the fact that during the summer Iceman’s fenders are always deployed for lock navigation and the fender holders double as flower boxes once they hit Ottawa and are done with customs so they can buy flowers!

DIESELICIOUS!

No photo of this 50+ foot cabin cruiser that blew by us too quickly to get a shot.  Her name definitely reflects her captain’s taste for speed though!

FIRST FORTY

first forty.JPGWe met First Forty in the Keys and then again in Alton, Illinois where we traveled together off and on down the river system.  They put an offer in on their boat and went out to dinner to celebrate their anniversary, hoping their offer would be accepted.  At dinner, Bill toasted Bobbie, “Here’s to the first forty!”  She replied, “If we get the boat, I think we just named her!”  They got the boat!

FOLIE A DEUX

Folie A Deux

Our friends Mark and Meridee inherited the name when they bought their boat and decided it was suitable enough to keep.  The term is in the DSM-V and is defined as two people having an identical delusion – believing something to be true which clearly could not be.  This is called a folie a deux, or sometimes a “shared psychotic disorder.” This unusual disorder is more likely to occur in a closely related pair, like twins, or a married couple, who are isolated from other people. Folie à deux means “shared madness,” or “madness for two” in French. We decided that all Loopers might be termed  folie à plusieurs (“madness of several”)!

IRISH WAKE

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I put this one in for Paul Donovan!!! Thought it was a pretty clever play on words!

And here’s the last one!  Hope you enjoyed the cleverness of our fellow boaters!

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The Crossing

Sorry, I thought I had posted this and while it is probably not very interesting for regular folks, the point of it is to give the Loopers behind us, a glimpse into what the Crossing was like for us.  So here it is…

Week 51 – The Crossing

It is hard to believe that we are about to be done with this epic journey.  But home is now within a day’s journey, albeit a very long day.

It poured last night and we woke up to find the carpet in the bridge absolutely soaked, which is unusual.  We get as much stuff under it to ventilate it as possible but I know we will smell like a wet dog before long because it is so humid that it won’t dry any time soon.  I throw all the wet towels and stuff in the dryer so that we will have some dry things if it pours while we are crossing the Gulf.

We stow everything that could bounce around, ready our ditch bags

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and charge all electronics that we might need during the trip.

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We empty the dinghy, getting its spare gas can into it and then we secure anything on the decks that might crash around if the seas get rough.  Even Basil is seat-belted in for the ride home.

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10:00  We meet with Kim at the C-Quarters office for a final weather briefing along with Carol and Tom of Desintation ??? and Lucie and Ben of Lulu.  We go back and forth about whether today or tomorrow will be better.  The problem with waiting until tomorrow is that we will still be at sea on Monday and the weather on Monday will deteriorate to dangerous conditions.  Kim feels that either day will probably be fine but we NEED to be gone with enough time to reach Tarpon before Monday’s weather hits.

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The sun is shining and we make a unanimous  “GO” decision.

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We will need to top off our tanks with “comfort fuel.”  Realistically we have enough fuel to reach Tarpon with plenty to spare but we know we will feel better if we are completely topped off.  We kill a half hour and then warm up the engines and head over to the fuel dock, which is right next to where Destination??? is docked.  As we finish fueling, I look up and no kidding, there is FOG rolling in.  Are you kidding me?!!?!?  This is NOT what we want!  Tom calls that he is rethinking going.  Jerry and I tell him that we are going to go ahead and we’ll text or radio back what the conditions look like once we get out of the harbor.  We will return to our slip if things do not look comfortable.

11:45  Makin Memories departs alone in the fog with Jerry at the helm.  We have about 30-40 feet of visibility and so can pretty much see from marker to marker.  Of course we have radar and AIS so we can see anything that might be out there.  The water is much calmer than it was when we came into Carrabelle but the proof will be found once we clear the cut by Dog Island and get into the Gulf.

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12:28  We radio to our buddy boats that we are clear of Dog Island and waves are as forecast, mostly 2 feet with a couple of 3’s thrown in for good measure.  The direction of the waves is also as forecast, from the southeast, which is the best direction for us.  The period between waves is about 6 seconds which makes for a gentle up and down rather than a constantly pounding ride, so that’s a positive also.

Visibility is up and down between 40 feet and 40 yards but the sky is bright.  Our buddy boats decide they will follow us and should depart within a half hour.  We are glad they are coming and try to reassure them that the ride looks decent though visibility is an issue.

No matter what else happens, we are going to be doing about 11 hours of this passage in the dark so, to me, fog is good practice.  You can’t see a lot but you can see something and we have radar and a good chart plotter so we can and will have to go on instruments anyway once the sun sets. The fog will prove a good transition.

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13:08 We get a text saying that Destination??? and Lulu are returning to the marina.  Dang!  I get it, you shouldn’t push if you aren’t comfortable and they are not comfortable.  Maybe they will come later in the day or the next day but we are now out of cell phone range and won’t know what they decide until tomorrow morning when we are close to shore.  Our prayers go with them whatever they decide to do.

13:45-16:00 We have lunch and I take the helm.  We have decided to take 2 hour shifts and mine is uneventful.  The sky brightens a bit and visibility comes and goes. We are in 40-80 feet of water and it is the beautiful blue-green of the Gulf again.  I am so happy to be out of brown water!!!

 Jerry reads a while and relaxes but I can tell he’d rather be driving!  A sweet little tern flies circles around the boat, traced in gold by sunlight.  He stays with us for a half hour or so but I can’t get a photo as the swells make focusing on anything impossible plus I AM driving! 😉

16:00-18:00 Jerry takes the helm and all is calm for about a half hour when he tells me to check the dinghy.  It isn’t good.  The waves are pulling on the rear outside pontoon and have loosened the back line to where the little boat is being pulled off the cradle.  I take the helm and Jerry dons his pfd and goes astern where he tightens the loose line and adds another one to keep the dinghy closer to our stern and up out of the swells.  He resumes control and guides us through conditions that are about the same.  The wind is still out of the southeast and the waves are still 2’s and occasional 3’s.  We can’t really see the sun through the fog but we can tell it is lowering toward the horizon.

18:00- 20:00 I take the helm and the sun is definitely setting or has already set.  I can make out the horizon but just barely and eventually what little light there is fades, disappears and all visual cues are completely lost.  This has now become an exercise in trust and endurance.  I can tell that Jerry doesn’t like this non-existent visibility by his pacing around the boat but eventually he calms into acceptance and relaxes to read for a bit.

I like to drive standing up and even now, I am more comfortable that way.  I loosen my knees and allow my body to become one with the motion of the boat.  It is much easier than staying stiff and fighting the lift, drop and tilt.  In the darkness, I can see my instruments and the faint glow from our running lights on either side of the bridge.  Through the glass, I can see absolutely nothing but I am amused that the light from the I-pad reflects off my face, painting a ghostly image on the strata glass that resembles Munch’s The Scream.

We have made enough progress that I can enlarge the I-pad map and can actually see the Anclote River on it.  Now I have something definitive to aim for rather than just a general direction and it makes steering much easier.  We have opted not to head for the Red 2 buoy, which most folks take as the most direct route.  As we are early, we want to stay out as far off shore as possible to avoid the crab traps and so we take a heading directly to Anclote Key.

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At the end of 2 hours my ankles, knees and lower back can feel the stress of the constant motion of the bridge and I am glad when Jerry takes over.  I grab us a snack and settle in to read for a while.

20:00-22:00 – Jerry’s watch is uneventful.  The waves seem to calm a little bit and ease us into a steady rolling pattern.  I am constantly thinking of our buddy boats and wondering if they ever left Carrabelle or if they will go Sunday.  If they don’t, they will most likely be in Carrabelle for New Year’s Eve.  Either way, it’s all good.  You have to make a choice and be okay with it, forcing it doesn’t work well.  Jerry had really done the homework on conditions and was good with the forecast.  I guess the decision was easier for us; one of us has had extensive experience flying an airplane in zero-zero visibility and has also flown under the hood, relying on instruments alone.  The other of us kind of believes that historically the people who obeyed when instructed to “Fear not…” generally had some pretty cool things happen to them!

I read for a while and then make us some dinner before we switch roles again.  I am glad that I have prepared meals ahead so that food is easy.

22:00-12:00– 2 hours goes fast when you are relaxing or reading but steering without seeing stretches the time out unbelievably.  It is like playing the world’s most boring video game, trying to keep your little arrow on the chosen target.  Let your mind wander for even a nano-second and your course is off by 45 degrees and then panic has you over-steering to the point where IF you could see your wake, you would see nothing but S turns!  Relaxing into a zen-like focus is the best way to deal with the ennui.

I am happy to see Jerry relax, read and then sleep for a good part of the two hours.  I am sitting down to steer now and I can’t wait for him to take over. I am going to get an Aleve, my neck and shoulders are feeling the strain and my eyes could use some drops to alleviate the gritty feeling.

12:00 – 2:00 – I read and nap throughout Jerry’s watch.  The moon and stars are playing hide and seek with us through fog which must be less dense now but which is still billowing around us and is completely drenching the boat inside and out.  The clammy feeling is not pleasant but at least we are making forward progress.

2:00-4:00 – I can now see Anclote Key on my I-pad! HOME!!!  This is now exciting.  I can see some fish havens between us and the Key and know I will need to navigate between them.  These are easy to miss until you have your charts blown up to a detailed level.

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Photo Credit: Alamay

Fish havens are artificial shelters or reefs constructed of rocks, concrete, car bodies, and other debris which are placed on the gulf floor to attract fish. Fish havens are often found in the vicinity of fishing ports or major coastal inlets and can be hazards to navigation because they are marked with small yellow buoys (which we aren’t usually looking for) and can also create shallow areas that can be a problem.  The moon shines through the fog and I can even see it reflected on the water’s surface which is now glass smooth.  There are some gentle swells but there is no wind at all and the peace is amazing.

I keep marking off the distance to shore because I know that once we get 25 mile out, there will be crab traps.  We do not want to snag one and have to go under the boat with a knife to cut the line away from our props, especially in the dark!!!  A little while later, Jerry is doing his business over the side and sees a float slide by us in the dark.  Now we have to be especially alert but shining the spotlight doesn’t do much good as it simply bounces off the fog. Prayer covers us from aboard and ashore and we thankfully manage to avoid them, only seeing two but knowing there is probably a minefield of them out there!

4:00-6:00 – The sandbar off the north end of Anclote Key is now visible on our chart plotter and we stay as far out as we can, away from shore and crabpots and then angle in, working our way safely between the fish havens.  We get to the red marker at the tip of the sandbar, angle around it and drop the hook on the east side of the sandbar.

We could probably take the boat home in the dark and fog but we prefer to wait.  We are now in a spot that we come to anchor out on the weekends and we want to savor this last little bit of our journey, plus we are exhausted.  Fatigue battles with the high of having completed this epic journey and we are punchy reminiscing about having stayed at “the pits, the ritz and everything in between” as Jerry put it.  We retire our sadly, gray and well-worn white burgee for a crisp new gold one and Jerry proudly installs it on the bow of the boat.

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The sun comes up and starts to burn off the fog and the world melts into view. We are home!

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A few hours later the two of us pull up the anchor and bring the gold home to Tarpon Springs.

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A dear friend is waiting for us to take a photo of Makin Memories sporting her new gold burgee.  It is a little sad that the trip is over but it is truly good to be home!

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We love living by the wisdom of this quote: “When life gives you choices, choose the path that will lead to a better anecdote!”  Boy, has this year been all about that!

As We Finish Our Loop

Today, 12/30/2018, a week earlier than planned, Makin Memories faithfully returned her captains, Jean and Jerry Coleman, to their home port in Tarpon Springs, FL after having successfully completed 7300 miles of the Great Loop.  We soloed 19 hours and 166 miles of the Crossing from Carabelle to Tarpon Springs.

We suffered no major injuries (a couple of cracked ribs) to person or property, no major illnesses (one case of flu), only minor mechanical challenges and no damage to shafts or props, so common on various parts of the Loop, especially when rivers are flooded and debris is rampant.  We were blessed by so many people, places and events during our Loop experience. Here are just a few for which we will be eternally thankful: (hopefully in the rough order of their occurrence):

Makin Memories at Cabbage Key Inn near Jimmy Buffet and Randy Wayne White’s photos IN OUR OWN BOAT.

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Seeing the amazing shades of blue of the waters around the Keys, Marquesas and Dry Tortugas IN OUR OWN BOAT.

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Watching our boat pull anchor while we were ashore on Islamorada having a beer at the Lorelei resort and being able to get out to it, get it started and get into a slip there.

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Having friends, Tom and Faith stay with us in Key West ON OUR OWN BOAT!

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Taking part in the Archbishop’s Blessing of the Fleet in Saint Augustine IN OUR OWN BOAT.

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Our friends not forgetting us and letting us Skype into book club from OUR OWN BOAT!

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Re-visiting the wild horses and beautifully pristine National Seashore of Cumberland Island for the first time since I was 20 IN OUR OWN BOAT

Waking up to celebrate Easter morning in Savannah, starting with the half dozen donuts that were delivered daily to our boat at Thunderbolt marina!

Reconnecting with Colin in Charleston after hearing the Canterbury Boy Choir sing at Grace Episcopal Church.

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Celebrating our anniversary at the Southport Marina in a VERY valuable briefing about weather and conditions from Cape Fear north to Norfolk.

Going up the Potomac on the way to D.C.,  and visiting George Washington’s home Mt. Vernon IN OUR OWN BOAT!

Getting to visit DC on Embassy day and see 5 different embassies with Andrea!

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Weaving around the Staten Island Ferries, tugs and barges and freighters, in New York Harbor, to anchor behind the Statue of Liberty, IN OUR OWN BOAT.  And then getting to see Hamilton on Broadway!

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Watching Eric Clapton live at the Greenwich Town Party from the back deck of OUR OWN BOAT. (thanks, Tog and Doreen).

Being boarded for the second time by the USCG in New London with our cousins Tog and Doreen aboard, on our way to dock at the US Coast Guard Academy!

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Having Leland aboard to ride the Hudson River up the west side of Manhattan and past the Palisades in OUR OWN BOAT!